Foundations: Whichever version you have chosen to build the starting point is always the digging of foundations. Even if you have chosen to build a ruin don’t forget that the Folly is intended to be a permanent feature – good foundations are needed. Foundations should be constructed from concrete rubble and a strong mix of concrete. Your builder or surveyor should be able to calculate the volume of foundations required. We can, of course advise, but cannot be specific through of lack of local knowledge.

Materials: It goes without saying that you will be using a large number of Redwood Stone components (!), but we do advise they be used in conjunction with as wide a selection of reclaimed materials as possible. These materials should be chosen to complement your locality and may include a variety of reclaimed bricks and timber, natural stone, slate and tiles. A lovely touch is to add some curiosity of your own choosing – don’t be afraid to be individual.

Fixing: Normal building practises apply here but it may be prudent to adhere to local or historical methods for the sake of authenticity – perhaps a lime mortar mix should be used, or copper nails for the roofing. It is important that you allow yourself artistic licence to perhaps not do everything perfectly. A slightly ‘distressed’ or ‘rough’ look to the building work will add to the character of your Folly. It is a dangerous thing to encourage builders to do a worse job than they otherwise might do but hopefully you know what we mean!

Roofing: The simplest solutions are the best and technology has yet to beat the traditional methods of keeping the water out! Always make sure that the natural path for rainwater – even when driven by the wind – is out, not in. Tiles and slates have worked for centuries and help to complete the overall impression of your Folly

Tips: Foundations and Plinth Course: (pic) It is always best to lay foundations in advance to allow them to cure (go hard) properly. The plinth course is the most vital part of your building process – if you do not start straight and level then the problem is only exacerbated the higher you build. If you make sure the plinth course is built correctly and then left to set overnight there will be no danger of the levels shifting as you build higher.

Windows: We advise using stainless steel re-bar (6 or 8mm) as dowels to fix the jambs and mullions to the cills and heads. The stone can be easily drilled using a masonry bit and polyester resin is ideal for setting the dowels. We recommend using the resin for the centre of the joint as well as for setting the dowels and then to surround it with mortar for a more pleasing external appearance. A useful tip is to set the jambs slightly higher than the mullion so that the weight passes down through the jambs and you are not left with the head swaying on the mullion.

Gothic Arch: The columns for the arch are hollow and should have re-bar (8 mm) running through from the foundation to 2 or 3 inches above the column. The hollow should then be lined with foam or corrugated card and filled with concrete. The protruding re-bar can then be resined into the base of the voussoir. The arch has to be built around a timber centering which will support the sections until keystone is in place. We always use a little resin when setting the keystone and often find that the voussoirs have to be adjusted slightly from the centering so that the keystone slots in perfectly. At this point the arch is solid but we always leave the centering in place until the resin and mortar are hard! A useful tip is to place a small piece of lathe between the column top and the centering – when taken away it facilitates the easy removal of the wood.

Joints: We like to use a stone dust mix and then brush out the joints with a wire brush the morning after each days work. This slightly exposes the aggregate and leaves a finish that will weather down more readily.

Roofing: If you are building a gable end it is always wise to set the springer stones with some temporary support and leave overnight before continuing. You can then place a template on the springers to help guide the stone or brickwork.

Rendering: This has been described as like icing a cake. We have found it best to start with a very sloppy mix to apply to the wall and as the mix stiffens so you can gradually work it to a smooth finish. If you use a relatively coarse stone dust mix wire brushing the next day leaves a lovely textured finish.

These tips are intended only to be used as guides. None of the components are load bearing and you should seek help from your builder and surveyor for matters of safety and structural integrity.